How do you test a radiator fan control module? To test a fan motor, unplug the electrical connector at the motor and use fused jumper wires to connect battery power and ground directly to the fan. If the fan does not operate, replace the motor.
Determine whether your radiator fan is manual or electric. To check an electric radiator fan, start the car and let it get up to the temperature where the fan normally kicks on. Use the volt meter to test if there is power to the wires. Normal voltage for a radiator fan is around 12 volts.
The engine temperature should trigger the fan to turn on. It will also turn the fan off once the engine has cooled to under 200 degrees. You may have heard of a part called the radiator fan switch or temperature fan switch. This is linked to a thermostat and works much like your home’s HVAC system.
Six things may prevent an electric cooling fan from coming on: … Engine thermostat is stuck OPEN (engine never gets hot enough to turn on the fan) Faulty fan relay. A wiring problem (blown fuse, loose or corroded connector, shorts, opens, etc.)
The only tool required to check a relay is a multimeter. With the relay removed from the fuse box, the multimeter set to measure DC voltage and the switch in the cab activated, first check to see if there are 12 volts at the 85 position in the fuse box where the relay plugs in (or wherever the relay is located).
Use a high impedance test light to test that the relay is receiving power. Connect the alligator clip from the light to a suitable ground. Probe the wire from the relay to the component it controls. If the bulb lights, then there is power leaving the relay, and it is working properly.
Why is protection relay testing important? Due to the critical nature of protection relays, testing during the commissioning stage is crucial for confidence in the operational safety of an electrical system. Additionally, testing on a regular basis is necessary to ensure correct operation is maintained.
By volt-amperes. U 15, When using a 10-wrap multiplier, the reading on the meter must be. Divided by 10.
The function of the cooling fan relay is to convert a low voltage signal from either the electronic control module (ECM) or a thermostatically controlled sensor. The cooling fan relay takes the low voltage signal and internally switches the relay “on” to allow battery voltage to be supplied to the radiator cooling fan.
In a blower motor, the relay supplies the power that allows the fans to circulate warmed air. Essentially an on/off switch, the blower motor relay’s reactions start and end the heating process in HVAC systems by controlling the flow of current between the power source and the motor.
A radiator fan is necessary to keep your car cool. The fuses inside of the radiator fan must be in good working order to make sure that the engine is able to stay cool. Without these components your car overheats.
If the fan doesn’t come on, you need to look for a blown fuse or breaker. In older cars, you might have a fusible link – this is wire within an insulated block of rubber. Try to grab the end and stretch it. If the wire stretches, the wire link could be broken and you’ll need to replace it.
As such, you should never drive your vehicle if the cooling fan isn’t working even though you can. … If the radiator does not have cool air blowing on it constantly, it will overheat eventually, so you’d need the perfect combination of weather and traffic to drive effectively without a radiator fan.
The fan relay is usually located near the bottom of the engine compartment on a metal frame member. The metal acts as a heat sink to keep the fan relay cool.
Radiator Fan Relay Replacement Cost – RepairPal Estimate. Labor costs are estimated between $27 and $35 while parts are priced at $32. This range does not include taxes and fees, and does not factor in your specific vehicle or unique location. Related repairs may also be needed.
Connect a test light or multimeter to the ground (black lead). Turn the ignition key to the on position (engine off), and remove the relay. Using the probe, test all terminal sockets in the relay connector. Two of the four should have power.
Using a multimeter set on the Ohm scale, use the positive lead and test the black wire. To check the purple wire for current, use your ignition key and turn it to the run setting, turn the heater power to full power and set the multimeter to DC power. If your meter reads “no current” the motor is no good.
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