Ignition coils are an important part of your car’s ignition system. A bad coil can cause your engine to misfire and lead to other problems.
If you’re experiencing problems with your engine, it’s important to test the ignition coils and see if they’re at fault.
In this article, we’ll show you How To Test 4 Pin Ignition Coil With Multimeter? We’ll also provide some tips on how to troubleshoot and fix an ignition coil that’s not working properly.
The 4 pin ignition coil is a device that is used in cars to provide the spark that ignites the fuel. It consists of four main parts: the primary winding, the secondary winding, the spark plug, and the distributor. The primary winding is responsible for providing the initial voltage to the spark plug, while the secondary winding provides the high voltage needed to actually create the spark. The distributor is responsible for distributing the sparks to the correct cylinders.
When the engine is running, the 4 pin ignition coil provides a continuous supply of high voltage to the spark plugs. This high voltage is necessary to create the spark that ignites the fuel in the cylinders. If there is a problem with the 4 pin ignition coil, it can cause the engine to misfire or stall.
Socket set (optional)
Step 1: Disconnect the negative (-) lead of your tester to the battery.
Step 2: Set your multimeter to the ohms setting.
Step 3: Probe the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on your ignition coil with the tester leads.
Step 4: Most coils should read between 0.4 and 2 ohms. Zero resistance would indicate a shorted coil while a high resistance reading would indicate an open coil. If you get a reading of infinity (a straight line), this means your coil is open and needs to be replaced. If you get a zero ohm reading, this means your coil is shorted and also needs to be replaced.
Step 5: You can check for continuity between the primary and secondary terminals of your ignition coil with the tester leads to see if the coil is functioning properly. There should be continuity between these terminals if the coil is working correctly. If there is no continuity, this means the coil is open and needs to be replaced.
If you suspect that your ignition coil may be going bad, there are a few symptoms that you can look out for. These include:-Engine misfires-Rough idling-Reduced fuel economy-Check engine light comes on-Engine stalls-Car won’t startIf you notice any of these symptoms, it’s important to have your ignition coil checked out as soon as possible. Ignoring these signs could lead to more serious engine damage down the road.
If your ignition coil is faulty, the first thing you should do is check the manufacturer’s recommended replacement interval. In some cases, ignition coils may be covered under your car’s warranty. If this is the case, you can have your coil replaced for free at a dealership or authorized service center.
If your ignition coil needs to be replaced and it is not covered under warranty, you can expect to pay anywhere from $100 to $400 for a new coil. The exact price will depend on your vehicle’s make and model.
The following chart is an approximate range of resistance readings for the most popular types of coils. Between 0.4 and 2 ohms are typical for all kinds of coils. A zero resistance reading indicates a shorted coil, whereas a high resistance reading implies an open coil.
The positive terminal on the ignition switch must be connected to the plus side of the coil, while the negative connection is made with the distributor in a 12v system. This should be backwards from what it was when you had a 6v Positive Ground.
To test whether your coil is defective, place one lead of the ohmmeter on each side terminal, and another in the center high tension terminal. Read the number of ohms displayed on the meter. You are looking for a range of 7500 to 10,500; if it falls outside that, it means your coil needs to be replaced.
There are a number of reasons that your ignition coil may not be firing. It could be due to a faulty spark plug, bad connection, or a problem with the ignition switch. If you suspect that your coil is the problem, you can test it with an ohmmeter. If the reading is outside the range of 7500 to 10,500, then it needs to be replaced.
Yes, if the points are open and/or the electronic module is not closed, you will check battery voltage on both the coil (+) and coil(-) terminals. Because there is no current flowing through the coil (no path to earth), both sides of the coil will be at the same potential.
Here’s How To Diagnose and Test An Ignition Coil
Use a multimeter to check the removed ignition coil. To measure the primary winding, connect an ohmmeter to PIN 1 and PIN 2 of the component connector. The ignition coil’s high-voltage outputs
Your car’s electrical system is based on 12 volts, so components must be built using that voltage as a foundation. The ignition coil (also known as a “hot wire”) is joined to a wire that delivers the 12 volts into the coil.
The ignition relay is typically located in the fuse and relay panel under the hood, and its purpose is to provide power to the car’s ignition system as well as some of the fuel system’s parts. A broken or failing ignition relay will often cause a few symptoms that can let the driver know there may be an issue.
The ignition coil is what tells the spark plugs to fire. It increases the low voltage from the battery to the high voltage needed to ignite the air/fuel mixture in the cylinders. When there is a problem with the ignition coil, it can cause misfires, a drop in fuel economy, and stalling.