gravity bleeding doesn’t work, even on brakes, because air moves up through brake fluid, and only pressure (of the brake pedal) can move enough fluid down and out taking air with it. the easiest way i bled my clutch system after replacing the master cylinder was using a vacuum pump bleeder, 40 bucks or cheaper.Oct 31, 2007
gravity bleeding doesn’t work, even on brakes, because air moves up through brake fluid, and only pressure (of the brake pedal) can move enough fluid down and out taking air with it. the easiest way i bled my clutch system after replacing the master cylinder was using a vacuum pump bleeder, 40 bucks or cheaper.
Pump the clutch pedal – If you have a friend with you, have them get in the driver’s seat and pump the clutch pedal 10 to 15 times to build pressure. Then have them press and hold the clutch pedal completely down. Test the bleeder – While the clutch pedal is held to the floor, use your line wrench and open the bleeder.
Place the other end in an empty water bottle and top off the master cylinder with brake fluid. Pump the clutch pedal – If you have a friend with you, have them get in the driver’s seat and pump the clutch pedal 10 to 15 times to build pressure. Then have them press and hold the clutch pedal completely down.
The easiest way to bleed the clutch is to use a vacuum pump to pull the fluid and air out of the system while keeping the clutch fluid reservoir topped off. Continue pumping fluid from the bleeder valve until you no longer see air bubbles in the fluid.
If there are no fluid leaks at the master cylinder, no swirl or bubbles in the clutch reservoir, and the clutch pedal does not slowly descend with constant pressure, then the master cylinder is likely working properly. If there is still softness in the clutch pedal, you likely need to bleed it again.
Open the bleeder valve – Use a line wrench to open the bleeder valve to the slave cylinder. Place a drain pan under the slave cylinder to catch the brake fluid. Bleed the brake fluid – Leave the bleeder open and allow gravity to bleed the slave cylinder for one to three minutes.
Air is sucked into the clutch slave cylinder, thru the cup seal. I know it sounds hard to believe, but the cup’s lip faces inward only with every slave cylinder I’ve been inside. The explanation I remember was that it is most likely to occur when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, and then released quickly.
SPONGY CLUTCH PEDAL
If your clutch pedal feels soft or ‘spongy’ at any point as you press it to the floor, it’s a sign your clutch fluid is low. That spongy, inconsistent feeling is due to air in the clutch line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder.
This situation is usually a failure of either the clutch master or slave cylinder – they simply wear out. … If the fluid loss is on the ground, under the rear of the engine, the slave cylinder is the failing component.
Broken Clutch Cable: The most common reason to have a clutch pedal that goes all the way to the floor is a broken clutch cable. This is extremely common, particularly on older cars. … Low Fluid: If you have a hydraulic clutch, there are a couple of other things it could be. One is low fluid in the master/slave cylinder.
If you need to pump your clutch to make it work properly then you have a problem (almost 100% certain) with either air in the line OR you have a slave cylinder on the way out. It is not a transmission fluid related problem, as they are two separate systems and completely sealed away from each other.
If there is no or little resistance to the clutch pedal, the most likely cause is a faulty clutch master cylinder. This is the unit that creates the pressure forcing the hydraulic fluid to more the clutch slave cylinder which disengages the clutch.
There are typically a few different possibilities for why a clutch pedal will stay on the floor. It could be a failed clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, failed fluid line, or the clutch has failed.
This method works for nearly all modern cars, and anything as long as the master cylinder is up high on the firewall, above the level of the wheels.
GM suggests a special clutch bleeding process that involves filling the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid, then mounting a vacuum pump on the reservoir neck and repeatedly applying 20 inches of vacuum to the system until no more air bubbles appear.
The clutch only wears while the clutch disc and the flywheel are spinning at different speeds. When they are locked together, the friction material is held tightly against the flywheel, and they spin in sync. It’s only when the clutch disc is slipping against the flywheel that wearing occurs.
The only way to reduce the effort would be to change the pressure plate. A slightly smaller master cylinder would make it easier to push, but as stated above if you go to small it won’t move enough fluid to make the clutch release properly.
Can a clutch slave cylinder fail without leaking? … Yes master cylinders can fail without leakage, the clutch master cylinder has a piston inside and there are separate channels for hi-pressure line and return(low pressure) line and their location in the cylinder differs for manufacturers.
The clutch master cylinder is the car part which is located directly behind the clutch pedal. When the driver raises the pedal, the master cylinder’s piston is taken out of the slave cylinder and the clutch is engaged.
There are a few possibilities; you either have a problem with the hydraulics, a mechanical problem with the clutch, or a transmission fluid leak. … Mechanical problems: If the hydraulic portion of the system is found to ok, the problem lies in the clutch disc, pressure plate, or release bearing.
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