A distributor specifically can be time consuming to remove and correctly install, since it’s dependent on perfectly aligning the distributor and adjusting ignition timing after the replacement. In general however, this type of job in a shop environment can take up to 8 hours to complete correctly.
As a general rule, replacing a distributor will cost between $89 and $123. This price includes the cost for parts, usually between $39 and $59, and the cost for labor hours, usually between $50 and $64.
Bad spark plugs, fouled-up plug wires or a cracked distributor cap can cause spark loss, while compression loss — in which too much of the air-fuel mixture flees a cylinder before going bang — commonly arises from a leaky exhaust valve or a blown head gasket [sources: B&B; O’Reilly].
The rotor button should be pointing to the number 1 position on the distributor cap when the number 1 piston is at top dead center (on the compression stroke). The pistons come up two times during the combustion cycle.
Labor costs are estimated between $45 and $57 while parts are priced between $33 and $55. This range does not include taxes and fees, and does not factor in your specific vehicle or unique location. Related repairs may also be needed. This range is an average across all vehicles on the road.
Replacing the distributor requires you to use a timing light to set the timing of the engine after the new distributor is installed. To do this, you’ll need to use the timing specifications unique to your vehicle. Often, these are on a sticker under the hood or in the engine compartment.
spray liberally where it goes in the intake with pb blaster or good penetrating oil for several days,then LIGHTLY tap —spray some more—tap–tap–tap—spray–tap–tap–tap —be patient and it will free up.
Luckily, most distributors can be rebuilt, unless they are damaged or weathered beyond repair. Your car’s distributor sends the flow of high-voltage electricity from your coil to each of the engine’s cylinders. … The sparking action must speed up — or be advanced — as the engine runs faster.
Spark plugs are incredibly inexpensive, often costing less than ten dollars apiece. Now you may need to replace several at once, but it still won’t cost very much. The typical amount you will pay for spark plugs is between $16-$100, while for labor on a spark plug replacement you can expect to pay around $40-$150.
You can determine if it is 180 out by removing #1 plug and placing your finger/thumb over the hole. (Temporarily remove the wire from the coil first) Have someone “tap” the starter and you will feel pressure trying to to blow your finger away. This is the compression stroke. Note the direction of engine rotation.
Replacing the distributor cap and rotor at the same time should be completed every 50,000 miles, regardless of whether or not they are damaged. If your vehicle does not put on a lot of miles every year, it’s also a good idea to replace them every three years.
Having a timing belt replaced before it breaks will cost between $500 and $1,000 on average while waiting for it to break before replacing can cost upward of $2,000 or more.
They will thoroughly inspect your system and replace the distributor rotor and cap. Since the distributor rotor and cap can go bad over time because they are located in a harsh environment, it is important to know the symptoms this part will give off before it completely fails.
A faulty engine distributor won’t spark, which will either prevent the engine from starting or cause it a running engine to fail.
The most likely issue is a clogged fuel filter. … While the fuel filter is the most common problem with the fuel system and is the easiest to fix, a lack of power could also point to issues with the fuel line or the fuel pump.
Axial play (up/down) should be kept to between 0.010″ and 0.020″. Shims are available to properly set the axial play, but rotational play is set by the gear on the bottom of the distributor shaft and how it meshes into the gear on the back of the cam.
180* off means that the rotor is roughly pointing at the #6 plug wire on the cap at TDCC. Won’t run like that. Sounds like you’re timing is retarded like John mentioned. Check that the firing order on the cap is correct.
The distributor cap are tasked with passing voltage from the ignition coils to the engine’s cylinders through the spark plug wires and plugs themselves to ignite the air and fuel mix. A failing distributor cap will result in rough idle because the voltage is not being sent to the plugs at the proper time, or at all.
The distributor is like a traffic cop for electricity. The distributor contains, among other parts, a rotor that spins, and a number of contacts mounted to the distributor cap. Power from the ignition coil is supplied to the rotor. The rotor spins in time with the engine.
By the very late 1990’s mechanical distributors were pretty much gone from all cars.
Many modern cars have no distributor at all. The ignition is triggered by toothed timing wheels spinning with the crankshaft, which is much more accurate than points. Then there are individual coils for each cylinder, fired by the engine management computer.
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